July 28 Mileage: 32.5 1550 miles hiked We wake up to shelters crusted in ice and water partially frozen in our bottles. How did this happen? July in Wyoming. Go home weather, you're drunk. This weather feels nice once we start walking, though. Cool and crisp and sunny, and the trail climbs gently along the … Continue reading CDT day 85: a perfect day

July 27 Mileage: 3 1517.5 miles hiked I wake up at 2 a.m. in our motel room, thinking it's morning. But it's only... 2 a.m. I'm awake for a while in the dark, answering emails and doing errands on my phone. Everything piles up when I'm in the woods, unawares- it piles up and piles … Continue reading CDT day 84: snow in July

July 26 Mileage: 30 1514.5 miles hiked I wake up at 4:30 in the freezing dark (coldest hour of the night!) so that I have enough time to hike the 30 miles to the pass and still hitch into town. I shiver through my breakfast in the dark but then the first light of dawn … Continue reading CDT day 83: Dubois!

July 25 Mileage: 32 1484.5 miles hiked I have the most magical dreams and when I wake up on my neo-air in the frozen morning air with the dew on my sleeping bag I feel happy for no reason. It's amazing to be alive, you know? Long slow climb this morning, out of the forest … Continue reading CDT day 82: the kowabunga bandits

July 24 Mileage: 29 1452.5 miles hiked Spark set his alarm for 5:55 a.m. last night, as that's when the sunrise is and we're camped at a really nice lake with optimal sunrise views. At first I was grumpy about this, as I hate waking up to an alarm more than anything and am likely … Continue reading CDT day 81: flat trail and hot creeks

July 23 Mileage: 22 1423.5 miles hiked Old Faithful village is a bit of a nightmare. Even on a Wednesday in the rain the crowds are so thick that I feel like I'm at some sort of sporting event- hundreds of clean people in bright clothing clustered along the boardwalk around the main geysers, waiting … Continue reading CDT day 80: old faithful village overwhelm

July 22 Mileage: 28 1401.5 miles hiked We wake at six under the gazebo. We were up late, telling stories, and now I feel groggy. But it's a beautiful morning! Time to hike. A big cup of earl grey tea from the gas station for the dirt roadwalk. Spark and Track Meat eat breakfast burritos … Continue reading CDT day 79: Wyoming is gentle and kind

July 21 Mileage: zero I wake up at four a.m. again, and can't fall back asleep. Why? It's frosty and dark in the campground, and then there's a little light and I get up to walk to the showerhouse, barefoot in the dirt and realize that I'm been bleeding all over myself. Ah, that's why … Continue reading CDT day 78: in everything beautiful there is something strange

July 20 Mileage: 32 1373.5 miles hiked I have a dream I'm on a frozen lake in Alaska with Track Meat and Spark. It's nighttime and there are ice-skaters and then the northern lights come out, pink against the white mountains. The black ice begins to melt and we're in a boat, paddling around the … Continue reading CDT day 77: a bushwack and a roadwalk

July 19 Mileage 24 1341.5 miles hiked The condensation on my tent freezes in the night, and when I wake up to pee it's a sheet of solid ice. Oh. Cold weather in the mountains comes early, and fall is on its way. I guess this is a good reminder. I need to start to … Continue reading CDT day 76: I’m starting to feel like myself again