The haul road to Anaktuvuk: a bit of the Brooks range in Gates of the Arctic

I wake in my van in the loamy shaded forest of the west side of Washington's Olympic peninsula and flick my campstove aflame to heat water for instant coffee. The dogs wriggle awake under the heavy blankets and turn, in a moment, from sweet sleeping hot water bottles to zesty, firey chihuahuas, ready to fight … Continue reading The haul road to Anaktuvuk: a bit of the Brooks range in Gates of the Arctic

Mogollon Rim Trail day 30: from the frozen snags to the secret land of the free cows

5/9/19 Mileage: 16.5 407.7 miles hiked In the night condensation comes and steals the warmth from me. I wake up, touch my damp sleeping bag, decide I need to pee anyway. The tent has frozen solid from condensation, and I push away the frozen flap of the vestibule, shivering and tiny bits of ice rain … Continue reading Mogollon Rim Trail day 30: from the frozen snags to the secret land of the free cows