August 28 Mileage: 17.5 2,244 miles hiked I wake up bleary on the little hill above the town and sit in my tarp, waiting for the rising sun to dry the cuben fiber a bit. It rained all night but I was cozy and warm. The weather this year has been nearly perfect for southbounders. … Continue reading CDT day 116: strangers with magic, Colorado Trail hikers and the dark uncaring universe

August 27 Mileage: 28 2,226.5 miles hiked The Colorado Trail continues to be well-maintained and dreamy. I float down it all day, through forests of quaking aspen (when will they change colors?) and over a series of gentle passes. It rained all night last night; I slept wonderfully. I finish an audiobook. I eat the … Continue reading CDT day 115: Twin Lakes

August 26 Mileage: 30 2198.5 miles hiked I sleep the sleep of a dead person and wake at 7 a.m. feeling groggy and completely rejuventated. Not exactly early but hey, it was worth it. The CDT is the same as the Colorado Trail for this stretch! That means consistent signage and glorious, PCT style tread. … Continue reading CDT day 114: the Colorado Trail is a glorious dream

August 24 and 25 Mileage: zero Ski towns may not have souls but the food sure is good. Cheap sushi, jerk chicken, beef brisket, salad and tahini dressing, olives, dolmas, real potato salad. I am speaking, of course, of the whole foods hotbar. Also, I eat at Chipotle four times in two days. Coconut bliss … Continue reading CDT days 112 and 113: a double zero in Silverthorne/Frisco/Breckenridge

August 23 Mileage: 17 2168.5 miles hiked As soon as it's dark an icy wind comes rushing along the stream we're camped next to, transforming our idyllic balmy campsite into Antarctica. What do they call this- the catabatic effect? When you camp next to flowing water and there's a cold, cold wind? This wind is … Continue reading CDT day 111: climbing over castle walls

August 22 Mileage: 22 2051.5 miles hiked Climbing up into a green alpine wonderland of snow-capped ridges and hazy yellow light sunbeams reflecting off the rock and puddling on the green green meadows. It's so steep and so high but oh man, in Colorado is it worth it. My new life above twelve thousand feet. … Continue reading CDT day 110: The magical valley of wonder

August 21 Mileage: 19 2,029.5 miles hiked It's so cold- there's a cold front and fall is here for sure. I wake up to an icy wind and frozen shoes. I put on a pot of water for tea while still lying in my sleeping bag, and then stuff my numb hands back into my … Continue reading CDT day 109: not all miles are created equal

August 20 Mileage: 26 2,010.5 miles hiked The CDT punishes cowboy campers. Condensation comes in, soaks my bag, and then the cold descends, turning the dew to frost and freezing my shoes solid. I toss and turn for much of the night, cold. I curl my legs up and tense my whole body and when … Continue reading CDT day 108: Cold nights and tired days

August 19 Mileage: 2 1984.5 miles hiked I sleep badly again, if only because I'm in town again, in a bed. It's such a comfortable bed though! What a strange world this is. I wake early, lay in bed for awhile, and then commence the slowest morning in the history of anything. I bought a … Continue reading CDT day 107: Granby and Grand Lake

August 18 Mileage: 20 1982.5 miles hiked On this day in 2014 I finished my second thru-hike of the PCT. I think my body remembers that, and wants to be done. Or maybe it's the giardia. Soon, I tell my body. Soon. Just 20 miles today to the town of Grand Lake, Colorado. We're in … Continue reading CDT day 106: The Never Summer Wilderness