July 27 Mileage: 3 1517.5 miles hiked I wake up at 2 a.m. in our motel room, thinking it's morning. But it's only... 2 a.m. I'm awake for a while in the dark, answering emails and doing errands on my phone. Everything piles up when I'm in the woods, unawares- it piles up and piles … Continue reading CDT day 84: snow in July

July 26 Mileage: 30 1514.5 miles hiked I wake up at 4:30 in the freezing dark (coldest hour of the night!) so that I have enough time to hike the 30 miles to the pass and still hitch into town. I shiver through my breakfast in the dark but then the first light of dawn … Continue reading CDT day 83: Dubois!

July 25 Mileage: 32 1484.5 miles hiked I have the most magical dreams and when I wake up on my neo-air in the frozen morning air with the dew on my sleeping bag I feel happy for no reason. It's amazing to be alive, you know? Long slow climb this morning, out of the forest … Continue reading CDT day 82: the kowabunga bandits

July 24 Mileage: 29 1452.5 miles hiked Spark set his alarm for 5:55 a.m. last night, as that's when the sunrise is and we're camped at a really nice lake with optimal sunrise views. At first I was grumpy about this, as I hate waking up to an alarm more than anything and am likely … Continue reading CDT day 81: flat trail and hot creeks

July 23 Mileage: 22 1423.5 miles hiked Old Faithful village is a bit of a nightmare. Even on a Wednesday in the rain the crowds are so thick that I feel like I'm at some sort of sporting event- hundreds of clean people in bright clothing clustered along the boardwalk around the main geysers, waiting … Continue reading CDT day 80: old faithful village overwhelm

July 22 Mileage: 28 1401.5 miles hiked We wake at six under the gazebo. We were up late, telling stories, and now I feel groggy. But it's a beautiful morning! Time to hike. A big cup of earl grey tea from the gas station for the dirt roadwalk. Spark and Track Meat eat breakfast burritos … Continue reading CDT day 79: Wyoming is gentle and kind

July 21 Mileage: zero I wake up at four a.m. again, and can't fall back asleep. Why? It's frosty and dark in the campground, and then there's a little light and I get up to walk to the showerhouse, barefoot in the dirt and realize that I'm been bleeding all over myself. Ah, that's why … Continue reading CDT day 78: in everything beautiful there is something strange

July 20 Mileage: 32 1373.5 miles hiked I have a dream I'm on a frozen lake in Alaska with Track Meat and Spark. It's nighttime and there are ice-skaters and then the northern lights come out, pink against the white mountains. The black ice begins to melt and we're in a boat, paddling around the … Continue reading CDT day 77: a bushwack and a roadwalk

July 19 Mileage 24 1341.5 miles hiked The condensation on my tent freezes in the night, and when I wake up to pee it's a sheet of solid ice. Oh. Cold weather in the mountains comes early, and fall is on its way. I guess this is a good reminder. I need to start to … Continue reading CDT day 76: I’m starting to feel like myself again

July 18 Mileage: 16 1317.5 miles hiked All night the semis rumble by on the interstate and the streetlights shine a watery yellow. How's a person supposed to sleep around here? When I wake up I'm tired, but just regular tired. Yay! Big greasy breakfast at the diner. Then the three of us sit in … Continue reading CDT day 75: in the aeroplane over the sea