April 10 Mileage: 16 324 miles hiked Steep climb on an eroded horse trail first thing in the morning, the rest of the way up to the top of 50 Mile Bench. Then we’re on the ubiquitous sagebrush plateau, following faint use trails to two springs- mudhole spring and pocket hollow spring- both are deep … Continue reading Hayduke trail day 24: bouldering in Monday Canyon

April 9 Mileage: 4 308 miles hiked In the morning I wake up itchy. Ah, yes, the poison ivy, in the beautiful mess that was Steven’s canyon. I remember. I found a couple little burbles on my skin yesterday, clusters of small blisters, and now I seem to have more- a spot on my hand, … Continue reading Hayduke day 23: riding on ATVs in the beds of pickup trucks/hail/the long hitch back to the trail

April 8 Mileage: zero Dan and I both wake up with upset digestive systems, presumably from the water we drank in this last section. Mine really hits me when we’re eating breakfast at the local cafe. I’m going to tell you- it's a point of pride for me as a hiker that, before today, I’ve … Continue reading Hayduke trail day 22: Escalante is spelled Z-E-R-O

April 7 Mileage: 13 304 miles hiked I am so happy on my tiny neo-air with my lumpy mosquito headnet of extra clothes as a pillow and then I wake and the stars are still out! But I know that dawn is coming soon and I roll over and hug my dudefriend and his brand-new … Continue reading Hayduke trail day 21: Coyote Gulch

April 6 Mileage: 15 291 miles hiked I sleep amazing, my bag cinched up with just a little circle of stars, toasty warm. I wake at dawn and again stumble into the desert to do what I’ve started calling “super pooping”, which can either be a decent experience (not diarrhea, just, um, many pooping) or … Continue reading Hayduke trail day 20: a study of slickrock/Stevens Canyon

April 5 Mileage: 20 276 miles hiked Trapped in a stand of tamarisk. I’m trapped in a stand of tamarisk. I came down here following faint cow trails to cross this wee wash, which happens to be plum full of tall, dense tamarisk, and now I’m stuck. I thought I could crawl over a patch … Continue reading Hayduke trail day 19: Halls Creek/Heat/Tamarisk

April 4 Mileage: 12 256 miles hiked I fall asleep on the red dirt under the clear cold stars, warm and toasty. Dan is not as toasty- I lent him my old 10 degree quilt for this hike- that quilt has five thousand miles on it and even though I’ve washed it, it’s kind of… … Continue reading Hayduke trail day 18: Muley Twist Canyon/Damn You Laxative Springs

April 3 Mileage: 20 244 miles hiked I don’t sleep well, for whatever reason. I wake up cranky and tired and sore and just feeling kind of off. It’s going to be one those days, I guess. Walk up and down on all the things. Heave/crawl/slog your way over/around/underneath/through obstacles. Downclimb fantastical rock shapes in … Continue reading Hayduke trail day 17: waterpocket fold/cache party

April 2 Mileage: 25 224 miles hiked A 25 mile day on the Hayduke, they said it couldn’t be done. To be honest, we are only able to crush this almost-as-fast-as-a-regular-thru-hike mileage because we do not summit Mount Ellen, on account of the snow. Whereas Mt. Ellen requires a long, scrubby, 1mph cross-country traverse, all … Continue reading Hayduke trail day 16: not Mt. Ellen

April 1 Mileage: 11 199 miles hiked All night it storms. On and off. Rat tatt tatt tatt! Woosh woosh! For an hour and then, silence. An hour later it picks up again. Eventually I sleep, in spite of the cacophony. We’re warm and cozy in the tent, although in the morning the fabric is … Continue reading Hayduke trail day 15: in & out